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복식문화학회> 복식문화연구> 남성 재킷 패턴 설계를 위한 30-44세 남성의 상반신 체형 및 유형별 사이즈 연구

KCI등재

남성 재킷 패턴 설계를 위한 30-44세 남성의 상반신 체형 및 유형별 사이즈 연구

A study on the upper body type and size of men aged 30-44 for men jacket pattern design

권동국 ( Dong Kuk Kwon )
  • : 복식문화학회
  • : 복식문화연구 29권6호
  • : 연속간행물
  • : 2021년 12월
  • : 881-903(23pages)
복식문화연구

DOI


목차

Ⅰ. Introduction
Ⅱ. Background
Ⅲ. Method
Ⅳ. Results and Discussion
Ⅴ. Conclusion
Reference

키워드 보기


초록 보기

This study aimed to analyze adult men’s body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, ‘upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size’, ‘torso height and upper extremity length’, ‘shoulder dimension’, ‘upper body length’ and ‘shoulder angle’ were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. ‘Slender with big, raised shoulders’ was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the ‘big abdomen with flat chest’ ratio was low, while ‘obese with large shoulders’ was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.

UCI(KEPA)

I410-ECN-0102-2022-500-000932382

간행물정보

  • : 자연과학분야  > 가정
  • : KCI등재
  • :
  • : 격월
  • : 1226-0401
  • : 2383-6334
  • : 학술지
  • : 연속간행물
  • : 1993-2022
  • : 1902


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In the intensely competitive global fashion market, the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly widespread. However, there is a lack of research on challenges and opportunities associated with integrating cultural elements of Minhwa into fashion design. Moreover, diverse approaches to incorporate Korean cultural elements into contemporary fashion designs are still needed. This study aims to reveal the real-world challenges relating to the incorporation of Korean cultural elements, including Minhwa, into fashion design and to clarify the possibility of applying Lin's cultural levels to cultural aspects in accordance with experts' views. To establish a theoretical foundation, the literature review on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted. It analyzes Minhwa to gain an understanding of the characteristics associated with different cultural levels. In-depth interviews with fashion industry professionals and Minhwa artists were conducted to ascertain their attitudes toward Minhwa use. The study's major findings were threefold. First, the cultural design facilitates the introduction, promotion, understanding, and maintenance of the culture. Since Minhwa offers rich inspiration linked to Korean culture, Minhwa-related designs can provide new perspectives while still having commercial potential. Second, however, the limitations of existing cultural designs included their being outdated, superficial without interpretation, unsophisticated, or limited. Furthermore, the use of Minhwa is limited since it is difficult to avoid creating superficial and unsophisticated designs in the real world. Third, approaching Minhwa at different cultural levels can promote diverse thinking and reduce the challenges of Minhwa use in design, but the major challenge remains visual expression.

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발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 1호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 33-49 (17 pages)

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The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.

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발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 1호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 50-65 (16 pages)

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The aim of this study was to provide data to enable the development of skateboarding pants. From the Chinese skateboard club SNS, 126 skateboarders in their 20s and 30s were chosen to participate in a survey. Data was gathered using a questionnaire from May 14 to May 28, 2021, and then analyzed using SPSS 23. The results concerning production were as follows: clothing sizes are generally divided into six stages: XS, S, M, L, XL, and 2XL. The silhouette is wide, and most pants have e-bands and normal hems. The pants are made from cotton-blend fabric, which is mostly moistureabsorbing and quick-drying. Baggy pants are preferred by skateboarders, with cotton being the most common fabric. The crotch, knees, and buttocks of pants are the least satisfying for skateboarders. When they skateboard, their ankles sustain the most injuries, followed by their knees and wrists. In the survey of consumers' preferences for skateboarding pants, different styles were rated in the following order: straight pant silhouette, ribbed knit and string waistband design; full-rise waist height, string hemline design; and ankle-high pants length (fit), fabric and design. The hygroscopicity and ventilation of the fabric are crucial considerations when purchasing pants. In terms of color, chromatic and pastel colors are most popular. In addition, some people expect new fibers to be used and expect protective equipment and pants to be integrated.

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발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 1호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 66-87 (22 pages)

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This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.

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발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 1호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 102-120 (19 pages)

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With the growing importance of ESG as a must-have business strategy, this study attempted to analyze the current state of ESG practices in the Korean fashion businesses. The ESG cases of fashion business were collected from news articles searched on the largest Korean internet portal by November 2021 from October 2020 when the number of articles began to increase meaningfully. Three hundred ninety one ESG cases of 112 fashion manufacturing brands and 332 ESG cases of 49 retail brands were analyzed. Casual and outdoor/sportswear brands among fashion manufacturers were most active in ESG practices, and various online and offline retailers were practicing ESG. Approximately one-third of the fashion brands were positioned as eco-friendly concept. While environmental practices were the most practiced ESG, governance was the least practiced. Among environmental practices, fashion manufacturing businesses were most active in eco-friendly product development, while retail businesses were in eco-friendly campaign-event-service and eco-friendly packaging. The most active social practice was the contribution to communities, followed by retail businesses' sharing growth with partner businesses. Governance practices were focused on the structure and operation of the board. Various ESG collaborations with various partners were also observed. The research result is meaningful verifying and diagnosing the ESG practices of the Korean fashion businesses.

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발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 1호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 145-160 (16 pages)

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This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

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10Research of a new tie-dyeing tool based on 3D printing technology

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발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 1호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 161-171 (11 pages)

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Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the “7000 Nylon” material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

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The purpose of this study was first, to clarify the clothing benefits that Uzbek female college students seek through clothing products; and second, to determine whether there is a difference in clothing involvement and clothing purchasing behavior according to the type of clothing benefits. Data were collected from 290 female university students from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, and analyzed using factor analysis, K-means group classification analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, χ2-test, and frequency analysis. Respondents were classified into four types according to their clothing benefits: individuality/economy-pursuit, comfort-pursuit, fashion/brand-pursuit, and indifference. Significant differences were identified in terms of clothing involvement, information sources, clothing evaluation criteria, clothing store attributes, clothing wearing conditions (including monthly clothing expenses), number of purchases per year, clothing purchase location, clothing preference style, and clothing dissatisfaction. The fashion/brand-pursuit and personality/economy-pursuit types were influenced more by fashion and symbolism of clothing involvement, information sources, clothing evaluation criteria, and clothing store attributes. The individuality/economy-pursuit type purchased more frequently, spent more monthly clothing expenses, and used the internet. Clothing store attributes were considered more important by female students than the other attributes. In these results, clothing benefits were identified as consumer characteristics of female Uzbek college students and market segmentation was determined. In addition, it is meaningful in providing basic data for efficient marketing activities and minimizing trials and errors in establishing local-friendly strategies for target customers in different cultures.

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5Indonesian Muslim women's fashion design preference

저자 : Hyewon Park , Younghee Park

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 29권 6호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 810-827 (18 pages)

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Indonesian women have emerged as global consumers, and various studies are needed to expand the global fashion market targeting their needs. In this study, a survey was conducted to determine the fashion design preferences of Indonesian Muslim women according to demographic characteristics and religious variables. In this study, Indonesian women aged from their teens to their 40s were surveyed by questionnaire during June 2020. This yielded 301 survey responses, which were analyzed using χ2-test, t-test, ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test using SPSS23. The results of the study are as follows: Analysis of the demographic characteristics of Indonesian Muslim women and the degree of acceptance of fashion trends according to religious variables showed significant differences according to age, monthly income, and the extent to which they wore a hijab. Analysis of the demographic characteristics of the women and the degree of acceptance of the fitted garment according to religious variables showed significant differences depending on their age, whether they were married, their monthly income, religious faithfulness, the extent to which they wore a hijab, and the degree of acceptance of Islamic discipline. After examining the difference in Muslim women's preferred fashion images (according to demographic characteristics and religious variables), significant differences were identified according to their age, income, extent to which they wore a hijab, and the degree of Islamic discipline with regard to clothing.

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6전통 패션 기반 현대 패션브랜드에 나타난 문화적 지속가능성에 관한 연구 - 한국, 일본, 벨기에 브랜드 사례를 중심으로 -

저자 : 최유리 ( Yu Ri Choi ) , 마진주 ( Jin Joo Ma )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 29권 6호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 828-848 (21 pages)

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The purpose of this study is to analyze how modern fashion brands practice cultural sustainability by investigating the ways they use and reinterpret traditional culture and clothing. The transmission and reinterpretation of traditional cultural elements connect the past, present, and future. These forces also lead to the development of new creativity in the fashion industry. Three brands have been selected for case studies: Danha (Korea), Mittan (Japan), and Jan Jan Van Essche (Belgium). These brands possess in-depth understanding of traditional cultural elements, including clothing, dyeing techniques, and patterns unique to various regions and minority groups. The brands all make use of traditional cultural identities whose clothing contains the historical and sentimental values of various regions and ethnic groups. The use and mixing of various cultures can be seen as the respectful preservation of global culture. Also, in contemporary fashion, the use of traditional culture plays an important role in the presentation and development of creative designs. The use of traditional handicraft techniques and the use of traditional clothing in the past convey cultural diversity to future generations; they will have a lasting influence on future fashion trends. The results of the study show that cultural sustainability in contemporary fashion has been implemented through safeguarding and respecting indigenous cultures and developing cultural elements into creative design.

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7여성복 스몰사이즈 재킷 제품 생산실태 - 2021년 S/S 영컨템포러리 브랜드를 중심으로 -

저자 : 이유진 ( Yujin Lee ) , 장정아 ( Jeongah Jang )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 29권 6호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 849-864 (16 pages)

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This study analyzed product conditions in terms of “size system,” “clothing construction depending on fit,” “details,” “colors,” and “prices,” with an emphasis on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021, in order to provide basic data for the development of small-sized women's jackets. Out of 96 domestic and foreign brands, the study analyzed 254 small-sized jacket products from 23 brands that produce size-XS jackets. First, when examining the sizes for women's jackets, we found that 8 out of the 23 brands offer a size-XXS option. After conducting tree analysis to analyze the factors affecting the production of size-XXS, the study found significant results in the areas of “distinction between domestic and foreign brands” and “product price.” Second, after categorizing small-sized women's jackets into 3 categories―fit-slim, basic, and straight―the study analyzed clothing construction elements depending on fit. This seasons mainly feature straight-fit's hip-line length jacket, a 4-panel pattern, and a panel without a waist dart. Third, the study, through the analysis of the colors of small-sized women's jackets, found a higher frequency of colors in the order of black (23.0%), white (13.3%), and beige tones (10.1%), with additional colors such as sky blue, rose pink, and aquamarine in production, which exhibit the senses of the seasons. Price analysis revealed that small-sized jackets constituted a price range at the mid-to-low end, as in ₩50,000-100,000 (30.3%), ₩100,000-150,000 (19.3%), and ₩150,000-200,000 (11.8%).

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8패션제품 판매 훈련교육 프로그램을 위한 직무역량 연구

저자 : 김지연 ( Jie Yurn Kim )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 29권 6호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 865-880 (16 pages)

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The purpose of this study was to examine job competencies for sales training program development to maximize profits in fashion retailing. An empirical online survey was conducted from September to December 2019, and data was collected from 200 salespeople and store managers working in fashion stores. Results were analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, variance analysis, and regression analysis with SPSS 25.0. The major findings of this study were as follows. First, the most important job competencies identified by fashion store managers were: sales sense know-how, customer service skills, and sales person's fashion style sense, product knowledge, fashion marketing and customer management. The job competency factors for sales training programs included empathy with the customer, product knowledge, communications and networking, basic job requirement, and sales skills. These five factors positively influenced the employment intentions and expectations of work performance of graduates. These factors also had a positive influence on the need of sales training program and intention to participate in retraining. Store managers in fashion retail thought the most appropriate period for on-the-job training was either 2-4 days or more than 1 week. The results of this study can be used as a base to develop training programs for job efficiency for salespeople in fashion retailing.

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9남성 재킷 패턴 설계를 위한 30-44세 남성의 상반신 체형 및 유형별 사이즈 연구

저자 : 권동국 ( Dong Kuk Kwon )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 29권 6호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 881-903 (23 pages)

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This study aimed to analyze adult men's body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, 'upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size', 'torso height and upper extremity length', 'shoulder dimension', 'upper body length' and 'shoulder angle' were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. 'Slender with big, raised shoulders' was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the 'big abdomen with flat chest' ratio was low, while 'obese with large shoulders' was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.

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103D체표면 입체형상을 활용한 20~40대 성인남성의 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형 설계

저자 : 홍은희 ( Eun-hee Hong )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 29권 6호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 904-921 (18 pages)

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The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

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