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한국의류학회> 한국의류학회지> 국가등록문화재 제607호 서재필 진료가운 보존처리와 유물 충전재 개발

KCI등재SCOUPUS

국가등록문화재 제607호 서재필 진료가운 보존처리와 유물 충전재 개발

Conservation Treatment and the Development of a Relics Filling Pad to Maintain the Shape of a Doctor's Coat Worn by Seo Jae-pil, the National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607

이량미 ( Ryangmi Lee ) , 안보연 ( Boyeon An ) , 전은진 ( Eunjin Jun )
  • : 한국의류학회
  • : 한국의류학회지 45권3호
  • : 연속간행물
  • : 2021년 06월
  • : 409-422(14pages)
한국의류학회지

DOI

10.5850/JKSCT.2021.45.3.409


목차

Ⅰ. 서 론
Ⅱ. 유물 조사 및 제작 시기 고찰
Ⅲ. 연구 결과
Ⅳ. 요약 및 결론
References

키워드 보기


초록 보기

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil 's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

UCI(KEPA)

간행물정보

  • : 자연과학분야  > 가정
  • : KCI등재
  • : SCOPUS
  • : 격월
  • : 1225-1151
  • : 2234-0793
  • : 학술지
  • : 연속간행물
  • : 1977-2021
  • : 3734


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1국가등록문화재 제607호 서재필 진료가운 보존처리와 유물 충전재 개발

저자 : 이량미 ( Ryangmi Lee ) , 안보연 ( Boyeon An ) , 전은진 ( Eunjin Jun )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 409-422 (14 pages)

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A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil 's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

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2패션에 나타난 찰스 테일러의 '자기진실성(Authenticity)' -'고간지(Goganzi)' 디지털 콘텐츠를 중심으로-

저자 : 이윤경 ( Yoon Kyung Lee )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 423-438 (16 pages)

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This study examined fashion through the lens of Charles Taylor's concept of 'Authenticity.' From the point of view of 'Authenticity,' fashion can be thought of as “a means of expressing one's inner truth” and “affirmative about everyday life.” According to 'Authenticity,' fashion, in the first case (“one's inner truth”) appears as 1) magnetic uniqueness, 2) inner subjectivity, and 3) poiēsis. And in the second case (“affirmative about everyday life”) it is expressed as 1) naturalism, 2) positivity of self-expression, and 3) existentiality. For this study, we selected a high school 'ganzi' contest, whose participants were deemed to have a high level of interest in and understanding of fashion, compared to other teenagers living in South Korea. Among the 33 participants in 'Goganzi' Seasons 1 and 2, we analyzed the styles and looks of 30 works by the six people who made it to the final stage. As a result, we broke down the aesthetic values of authenticity that teenagers express through their fashion into three categories: plurality, originality, and creativity.

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33D 프로그램을 활용한 트랜스포머블 웨딩드레스 디자인 개발 및 효율성 비교연구 -스몰웨딩용 웨딩드레스 디자인을 중심으로-

저자 : 배수정 ( Soojeong Bae ) , 위안씬이 ( Xinyi Yuan )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 439-452 (14 pages)

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The purpose of this thesis is to compare the efficiency of 3D digital design technology with traditional hand-drawn designs of a transformable dress for a small wedding. After reviewing the literature, this empirical study analyzed the tendencies of small wedding dress design, concluding that a transformable dress for a small wedding consists of a bodice, skirt, and outer skirt or gown with train, each of which has five possible designs, resulting in 15 virtual items within the 3D program. The 3D program provides the benefit of easy design development as well as reduced costs and design time. Specifically, the random combination of 15 items with layers in the 3D program produced 150 different styles in 5 hours, while hand-drawing 150 dresses took 50 hours. Moreover, the 3D program does not need any material, but 150 physical drawings required a sketchbook, pencil, eraser, and marker, total cost 31,100 won. Additionally, the 3D whole-body scan helps the bride decide which design she prefers through virtual try-ons. Eventually, the 3D program could help a bride decide what she prefers and produce it with virtual simulation, resulting in reduced time and costs.

KCI등재 SCOPUS

4실험 조건에 따른 경편성물의 신장률과 축소율 분석

저자 : 이옥경 ( Okkyung Lee ) , 홍경희 ( Kyunghi Hong ) , 이경미 ( Gyeongmi Lee ) , 이예진 ( Yejin Lee )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 453-463 (11 pages)

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The lengthwise and widthwise deformation of warp-knitted fabrics with different sizes and loading modes were evaluated. Moreover, five tricot samples cut in three directions were compared under four test conditions (A-D). In tests A and B, 500 and 250 g loads were applied on a layer of 20 × 20 and 5 × 10㎠ samples, respectively. In test C, a 20 × 20㎠ sample was folded in half over a rod, and 500 g load was applied to each half. In test D, a 20 × 20㎠ sample was sewn in a loop and subjected to a 500 g load. The lengthwise extension and widthwise contraction analysis results indicate that test B affords the largest values. However, analysis results of the warp-knitted fabric normalized through conversion to a 1 g load and 1 cm sample width indicate that the largest values are afforded for test D. Therefore, pattern reduction may vary depending on the measurement method and properties of the knitted fabric used for the compression wear production, causing variations in the finished product. Thus, an appropriate measurement method must be adopted based on the compression wear design and knitted fabric to be used.

KCI등재 SCOPUS

5라이브커머스의 지각된 관계혜택이 소비자 신뢰 및 구매의도에 미치는 영향

저자 : 박신영 ( Shinyoung Park ) , 신수연 ( Su-yun Shin )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 464-476 (13 pages)

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This study empirically investigated the relationship benefits perceived by consumers from a live commerce channel and verified effects on trust in seller/product relationship and purchase intention to establish a strategy for a live commerce channel. An online survey was conducted among 204 women residing in Korea who had watched a video on fashion products shown by the NAVER Shopping channel. The perceived relational benefits from the live commerce channel were extracted into four groups: psychological, social, economic, and customerization benefits. Psychological benefits were found to have a positive effect on trust in seller but not trust in product. Social benefits and customization benefits had a positive effect on both trust in seller and product, but economic benefits had no effect. Trust in seller and in product had positive effects on purchase intention. Understanding consumer response in relation to perceived relationship benefits in live commerce can contribute strengthen consumer behavior research on live commerce channels. These results can guide fashion companies as they develop live commerce marketing strategies.

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발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 477-494 (18 pages)

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This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline―rather than expanding the width of the back crotch―improved the functionality.

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발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 495-509 (15 pages)

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The study investigated the effects of five commercial body shaping foundation items on clothing pressure, blood flow, body shaping effectiveness, and wearer satisfaction for middle-aged women. The study measured clothing pressure at each of the 10 designated measurement points for twelve subjects wearing the foundations. Blood flow changes were recorded and body shaping effectiveness was analyzed by comparing differences in girth when wearing and not wearing the foundations. The subjects rated wearer comfort along a 7-point Likert scale. The results were that clothing pressure was present at all measurement points, and all foundations placed the least pressure on the anterior underbust girth. In addition, clothing pressure was high in the order of the lateral, posterior, and anterior areas. As clothing pressure increased, blood flow and velocity decreased and overall wearer satisfaction was assessed to be less comfortable. Body shaping effectiveness was evident across all the items, as all decreased girth measurements significantly. In conclusion, the appropriate level of clothing pressure provided by experimental foundations which is positive for blood flow and has an excellent body shaping effect was found to be between 0.53 and 1.77 kPa.

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발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 546-558 (13 pages)

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As consumers' demand for corporate social responsibility (CSR) has increased, luxury fashion brands have been providing support for arts and culture as CSR activities. The purpose of this study is to examine patronage of arts and culture as corporate philanthropy and to analyze the motives luxury fashion brands have for supporting arts and culture. The study investigates patronage of arts and culture through literature reviews and conducts case studies of luxury fashion brands' patronage. The results of the analysis are as follows: first, patronage based on public interest reduces the social costs of arts and culture and helps to create aesthetic experiences for the public; second, sustainable patronage is not only priceless PR for luxury fashion brands, it also supports the development of arts and culture; third, authentic patronage obviates the criticism that luxury fashion brands only support arts and culture for the purposes of profit, by separating business operations from patronage. In conclusion, those three elements are at the heart of patronage for the arts and culture and fashion companies need to support culture and the arts by taking a long-term perspective when it comes to creating social value.

12
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A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil 's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

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This study examined fashion through the lens of Charles Taylor's concept of 'Authenticity.' From the point of view of 'Authenticity,' fashion can be thought of as “a means of expressing one's inner truth” and “affirmative about everyday life.” According to 'Authenticity,' fashion, in the first case (“one's inner truth”) appears as 1) magnetic uniqueness, 2) inner subjectivity, and 3) poiēsis. And in the second case (“affirmative about everyday life”) it is expressed as 1) naturalism, 2) positivity of self-expression, and 3) existentiality. For this study, we selected a high school 'ganzi' contest, whose participants were deemed to have a high level of interest in and understanding of fashion, compared to other teenagers living in South Korea. Among the 33 participants in 'Goganzi' Seasons 1 and 2, we analyzed the styles and looks of 30 works by the six people who made it to the final stage. As a result, we broke down the aesthetic values of authenticity that teenagers express through their fashion into three categories: plurality, originality, and creativity.

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발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 453-463 (11 pages)

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This study empirically investigated the relationship benefits perceived by consumers from a live commerce channel and verified effects on trust in seller/product relationship and purchase intention to establish a strategy for a live commerce channel. An online survey was conducted among 204 women residing in Korea who had watched a video on fashion products shown by the NAVER Shopping channel. The perceived relational benefits from the live commerce channel were extracted into four groups: psychological, social, economic, and customerization benefits. Psychological benefits were found to have a positive effect on trust in seller but not trust in product. Social benefits and customization benefits had a positive effect on both trust in seller and product, but economic benefits had no effect. Trust in seller and in product had positive effects on purchase intention. Understanding consumer response in relation to perceived relationship benefits in live commerce can contribute strengthen consumer behavior research on live commerce channels. These results can guide fashion companies as they develop live commerce marketing strategies.

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6BMI 지수에 따른 중년여성의 팬츠패턴 설계연구 -45~59세를 대상-

저자 : 이종규 ( Jong Kyu Lee ) , 임호선 ( Ho Sun Lim )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 477-494 (18 pages)

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This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline―rather than expanding the width of the back crotch―improved the functionality.

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7시판 체형보정용 파운데이션이 중년여성의 혈류 및 착용 쾌적감에 미치는 영향

저자 : 김남임 ( Nam Yim Kim ) , 박진아 ( Gin Ah Park )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 495-509 (15 pages)

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The study investigated the effects of five commercial body shaping foundation items on clothing pressure, blood flow, body shaping effectiveness, and wearer satisfaction for middle-aged women. The study measured clothing pressure at each of the 10 designated measurement points for twelve subjects wearing the foundations. Blood flow changes were recorded and body shaping effectiveness was analyzed by comparing differences in girth when wearing and not wearing the foundations. The subjects rated wearer comfort along a 7-point Likert scale. The results were that clothing pressure was present at all measurement points, and all foundations placed the least pressure on the anterior underbust girth. In addition, clothing pressure was high in the order of the lateral, posterior, and anterior areas. As clothing pressure increased, blood flow and velocity decreased and overall wearer satisfaction was assessed to be less comfortable. Body shaping effectiveness was evident across all the items, as all decreased girth measurements significantly. In conclusion, the appropriate level of clothing pressure provided by experimental foundations which is positive for blood flow and has an excellent body shaping effect was found to be between 0.53 and 1.77 kPa.

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8남성의 소셜 미디어 셀피 활동과 근육 및 신체 지방 불만족에 관한 연구

저자 : 이민선 ( Minsun Lee )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 510-524 (15 pages)

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Selfie practices on social media can result in negative body image for men. The current study investigated the dual body image pathway model for the relationship between selfie practices on social media and body satisfaction, with internalization as a mediator. Structural equation modeling analyses supported our research model when studying 446 young Korean male Instagram users. The results indicated that selfie editing behavior, but not selfie browsing behavior, significantly predicted an increased internalization of a body ideal. The positive associations between internalization, muscularity dissatisfaction, and body fat dissatisfaction were confirmed. Additionally, the indirect effects of selfie editing behavior on muscularity and body fat dissatisfaction due to internalization were significant. The study confirmed the detrimental effects of selfie behavior on body satisfaction for male social media users. The results provided valuable information that selfie editing may be a risky behavior since it can result in developing muscularity and body fat dissatisfaction. Theoretical contributions and practical implications were discussed. Future research should address the age and cultural differences that may elucidate the impacts of selfie practices on men's body image concerns.

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9국내 세탁행동의 지속가능성에 관한 연구 -유럽과의 비교를 중심으로-

저자 : 위지원 ( Jeeweon Wee ) , 이윤정 ( Yoon-jung Lee ) , 정혜정 ( Hye Jung Jung )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 525-545 (21 pages)

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The purpose of this study was to assess the sustainability of laundry practices among Korean households in comparison with European households. A total of 329 responses were collected through an online survey and analyzed using SPSS. Detergent dosing, use of fabric softener, prewashing, rinsing, washing programs, and washing temperatures of Korean households were not optimal for sustainability. Only 11.2% of respondents followed dosage instructions while the majority based on load size. Use of fabric enhancer, prewashing, and rinsing were frequent. Cotton 40°C was the most frequently used program (81.5%) while eco and cold wash programs were among the least (1.5%). In terms of laundry sorting, load size, drying, and ironing, more sustainable actions were reported. Laundry was often sorted by color, machines were commonly filled, and clothes tended to be air-dried and not excessively ironed. Gender was the primary socio-demographic factor denoting sustainable habits, with males being more attentive to instructions and care labels than females. European households, however, were more sustainable in all areas except for frequent ironing, and education level and employment status were significant factors affecting sustainable practices.

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10럭셔리 패션브랜드의 사회공헌활동으로서의 문화예술지원

저자 : 이명선 ( Myeongseon Yi ) , 범서희 ( Seohee Beom ) , 임은혁 ( Eunhyuk Yim )

발행기관 : 한국의류학회 간행물 : 한국의류학회지 45권 3호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 546-558 (13 pages)

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As consumers' demand for corporate social responsibility (CSR) has increased, luxury fashion brands have been providing support for arts and culture as CSR activities. The purpose of this study is to examine patronage of arts and culture as corporate philanthropy and to analyze the motives luxury fashion brands have for supporting arts and culture. The study investigates patronage of arts and culture through literature reviews and conducts case studies of luxury fashion brands' patronage. The results of the analysis are as follows: first, patronage based on public interest reduces the social costs of arts and culture and helps to create aesthetic experiences for the public; second, sustainable patronage is not only priceless PR for luxury fashion brands, it also supports the development of arts and culture; third, authentic patronage obviates the criticism that luxury fashion brands only support arts and culture for the purposes of profit, by separating business operations from patronage. In conclusion, those three elements are at the heart of patronage for the arts and culture and fashion companies need to support culture and the arts by taking a long-term perspective when it comes to creating social value.

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