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Acta Via Serica update

Acta Via Serica

  • : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원
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수록정보
수록범위 : 1권0호(2016)~6권2호(2021) |수록논문 수 : 154
Acta Via Serica
6권2호(2021년 12월) 수록논문
최근 권호 논문
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1Editors' Note

저자 : 계명대학교실크로드중앙아시아연구원

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 1-2 (2 pages)

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2East-West Exchange of Costume Culture: Focusing on the Analysis of Taq-i Bustan Reliefs of the Sassanian Dynasty of Persia

저자 : Youngsoo Chang

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 1-20 (20 pages)

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The Taq-i Bustan reliefs are representative works from the Sassanian dynasty of the 4th to 7th centuries. This study analyzes the costumes depicted in the Taq-i Bustan reliefs to gain understanding of the phenomena of cultural exchange between the East and West by observing the foreign cultural elements appearing in the Sassanian costumes of that time. Literature study and artifacts analysis were conducted in parallel. External elements appearing in Taq-i Bustan's costume were Greek-Roman and Central Asian. The tunics and trousers of the gods and the trousers of kings (Ardashir II, Shapur II and Shapur III) were made of thin fabric and showed many wrinkles, a characteristic of Greek and Roman clothing. On the spandrel above the arch of the great grotto of Khusrau II are depicted the goddesses of Victory, in a Greco-Bactrian style. Among the costume elements of Taq-i Bustan, there were also Central Asian elements observed. One Central Asian costume element was the round clasp ornament for tying the trousers. The side slits and hem of the tunic were presented in the style of the Sogd clothing of Central Asia in the 6th and 7th centuries, while the pearl rounded pattern was activated in Sogd, Kucha and Kizyl in the 7th and 8th centuries. These reliefs are considered important evidence of eastern influences in Sassanian culture.

3Central Asian Textile Motifs in Late Sasanian Art: On the Origin of Some Decorative Elements at Taq-i Bustan

저자 : Matteo Compareti

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 21-36 (16 pages)

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This paper discusses textile motifs depicted in the hunting panels inside the late Sasanian larger grotto at Taq-i Bustan. Scholars of Iranian art have referred to these rock reliefs in order to trace the origin of Sasanian textile decorations and their exportation in the whole medieval Eurasian continent. This however does not seem to be the case. In fact, the textile motifs reproduced at Taq-i Bustan could be a good term of comparison only for late Sasanian textile production. Moreover, nothing like this has appeared in previous Sasanian rock reliefs. For this reason, the present paper argues that some of those motifs could actually be importations from Central Asia where reproductions of textiles embellished with those motifs were very popular. Islamic written sources on Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs could be very useful to support some ideas expressed in this paper.

4Intentional Identities: Liao Women's Dress and Cultural and Political Power

저자 : Eiren L. Shea

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 37-59 (23 pages)

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Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected “Han” Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear “Han” Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.

5A Tent For The Afterlife? Remarks on a Qinghai-Sichuanese Panel

저자 : Mariachiara Gasparini

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 61-89 (29 pages)

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Recent excavations in Qinghai Province, China, have disclosed textiles and artworks from Tuyuhun-Tubo (Tibetan) tombs, dated to the 7th-9th centuries, that suggest artistic and cultural exchanges along an external southern branch of the main Silk Road, between Gansu and Sichuan Provinces, across the Qinghai-Tibetan plateau toward the Himalayas. Many similar textiles, possibly from this area, have appeared lately on the art market and ended in private collections. Although these textiles, dated to the early Tibetan period, follow a popular prototype established in Central Asia in the 6th century, the technical features, colors, and other indigenous elements suggest that they were woven in workshops different from those established between Sogdiana and Gansu. The exhibition “Cultural Exchange Along the Silk Road - Masterpieces of the Tubo Period,” organized by the Dunhuang Research Academy and the Pritzker Collaborative Art between July and October 2019 in Dunhuang, Gansu, was a groundbreaking event that gathered scholarly attention on early Tibetan material culture, but a relevant publication is still forthcoming. In my previous work, I briefly discussed a group of silk textiles, possibly from Qinghai or Sichuan, that I analyzed in 2014 in the China National Silk Museum in Hangzhou, Zhejiang. In light of the recent material excavated, published online, or displayed in Dunhuang, in this article, I reevaluate the data previously collected, and discuss in detail the technical and iconographic features of one of the fragments held in Hangzhou. Eventually, the piece was recognized as the ending part of a large panel, which is now in the Abegg Stiftung in Riggisberg, Switzerland.

6Silk and Cotton Textiles, the Principal Maritime Trade Commodities of Ancient India

저자 : Duraiswamy Dayalan

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 91-115 (25 pages)

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India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

7The Terminology of Silks in Texts of the Roman Empire: Qualities, Origins, Products, and Uses

저자 : Berit Hildebrandt

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 117-139 (23 pages)

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At the beginning of the Roman imperial period, moralizing authors criticized a material from the East that quickly gained popularity among the elites: silk. During Late Antiquity, the trade, production, and use of purple-dyed silks increasingly became the privilege of the emperors. While literature, court poetry, and laws give insights into the discourses surrounding silk, they are rather unspecific concerning silk qualities. This contribution analyzes the scattered descriptions of silks in Greek and Latin texts in a diachronic perspective, with a focus on the 1st cent. BCE to the 4th cent. CE, paying particular attention to the terminology, products, origins, and qualities of silk. The aim is to build a framework for comparisons with archaeological silk finds and other textile terminologies along the Silk Roads. Here, the silk finds from the oasis city of Palmyra/Tadmor in modern-day Syria, dating from the 1st cent. BCE to the 2nd cent. CE, will be used as a case study for the early imperial period. Taking these silk finds as a comparison, it will be shown that Greek and Latin terminology does not match the variety of silks known in the Mediterranean. Rather, linguistic differentiations focus on the forms in which silk reached the Mediterranean, as skeins, yarns, and fabrics, as well as on the different kinds of silks that were produced in the West, namely pure silk and half-silken fabrics, checkered “scutlata” damasks, purple-dyed, and gold-embellished silks. In contrast, silks from the East were subsumed under the term for “silks from the silk people” or simply “silks”. Moreover, ancient authors do not use the terms in the same way. These findings show the limitations of Western silk terminology and the importance of combining archaeological and written sources.

8Persianate Selves: Memories of Place and Origin Before Nationalism

저자 : Kristóf Szitár

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 141-143 (3 pages)

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9Kazakhstan's Developmental Journey: Entrenched Paradigms, Achievements, and the Challenge of Global Competitiveness

저자 : Almas Dissyukov

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 143-145 (3 pages)

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10Women in Place: The Politics of Gender Segregation in Iran

저자 : Aziza Shanazarova

발행기관 : 계명대학교 실크로드중앙아시아연구원 간행물 : Acta Via Serica 6권 2호 발행 연도 : 2021 페이지 : pp. 145-147 (3 pages)

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