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복식문화학회> 복식문화연구

복식문화연구 update

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture

  • : 복식문화학회
  • : 자연과학분야  >  가정
  • : KCI등재
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  • : 연속간행물
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  • : 1226-0401
  • : 2383-6334
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수록정보
수록범위 : 1권1호(1993)~30권6호(2022) |수록논문 수 : 1,947
복식문화연구
30권6호(2022년 12월) 수록논문
최근 권호 논문
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KCI등재

저자 : 이해임 ( Haeim Lee ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 779-798 (20 pages)

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The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

KCI등재

저자 : 임민정 ( Minjung Im ) , 박문희 ( Moonhee Park )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 799-813 (15 pages)

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The environment has increasingly attracted attention and fashion brands need to use new growth models by developing eco-friendly products, along with the drastic climate change. This study drew design guidelines from the factors of clothing disposal and reuse to propose ways to extend the longevity of clothing. It sets the design goals for the longevity extension of clothing as flexibility, originality, durability, and adjustability and drew a specific design guideline. The design methods used to achieve such goals are as follows. First, the design that is flexible in terms of physical changes needs to increase its activity and to be changeable, by applying pleats, rubber bands and elastic materials to the parts with many physical changes and movements. Second, it is necessary to reinforce the brand identity, create design that is flexible in terms of fashion and design very rare and attractive products, for the goal of original design beyond fashion. Third, it is necessary to increase the quality of clothing and improve the durability which can be decreased by washing and wearing. Fourth, it is necessary to create the design that can produce various styles, preserve the state of clothing and maintain its hygienic conditions by using removable detailed designs, shape-transformation designs and the designs which can be adjusted to climate changes and states, for the goal of adjustable design with better functionality. The findings provide ideas for fashion experts to pay more attention to the extending the longevity of clothing products and to develop eco-friendly designs and strategies.

KCI등재

저자 : 조현진 ( Hyun Jin Cho )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 814-827 (14 pages)

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This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a representative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative―reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats―while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

KCI등재

저자 : 장정아 ( Jeong-ah Jang ) , 권의정 ( Ui-jung Kwon )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 828-841 (14 pages)

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This study aims to develop a fitted torso pattern suitable for males in their forties and fifties who are obese―a group that accounts for more than fifty percent of men in this age group―using a 3D virtual fitting program. Size Korea's 2022 data for obese males in their forties and fifties is utilized for this study. In terms of the research method, a 3D program (CLO 3D) is used to implement the target group's various body types and to apply fitted torsos that enable verification and evaluation of the pattern's fit and ease. The characteristics of fitted torso patterns for obese bodies are as follows: the front centerline is a profile line; shoulder darts are added by reflecting waist-abdominal protrusion in the front panel; and shoulder, arm, waist, and center-back darts are constructed for the back panel. For obese bodies, the minimum circumference ease amounts should be approximately 6-7cm for the chest, 6cm for the waist, and 6-7cm for the hips. Based on an evaluation of the virtual fit of the developed fitted torso pattern, the data shows that a pattern (foundation) such as this is well suited for obese body types with an average of 4.67/5 points for reverse triangular obesity, an average of 6.67/7 points for log obesity, and an average of 6.69 points for the ease amount.

KCI등재

저자 : 이민선 ( Minsun Lee ) , 박해림 ( Hae Rim Park ) , 양호정 ( Ho Jung Yang )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 842-860 (19 pages)

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There has been growing attention on the well-being of people with disabilities. The purpose of this study was twofold: (1) to investigate the associations between individuals' socio-demographic and psychological characteristics and clothing expenditure, and (2) to examine the moderated mediation effect of self-efficacy and acceptance of disability on the association between dependency on others and happiness among people with visual impairment. This study was based on secondary analysis of data from the second wave of the 6th Panel Survey of Employment for the Disabled collected by the Employment Development Institute. The results of this study showed that average monthly expenditure on clothing was positively associated with self-efficacy, happiness, and acceptance of disability, while being negatively associated with dependency on others. The results also confirmed that self-efficacy mediated the association between dependency on others and happiness. A conditional direct effect of dependency on others on happiness was found, in which negative associations were significant among people with visual impairment who had low and mean levels of acceptance of disability (but not high levels). In addition, there was a significant conditional indirect effect, in which the indirect and negative effect of dependency on others on happiness via self-efficacy was significant for those with low and average levels of acceptance of disability. These findings support the importance of enhancing the independence and acceptance of disability among people with visual impairment, which ultimately contributes to their happiness.

KCI등재

저자 : 이세로 ( Sero Lee ) , 권미정 ( Mijeong Kwon ) , 박숙현 ( Sookhyun Park )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 861-879 (19 pages)

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Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 < VOGUE like a painting exhibition > hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre― due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry― appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photographs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

KCI등재

저자 : 풍역축 ( Yizhu Feng ) , 유환 ( Huan Liu ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 880-897 (18 pages)

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The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the 'Faux Chenille' textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

KCI등재

저자 : 지정숙 ( Jeong Sook Ji ) , 이예영 ( Yhe-young Lee )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 898-918 (21 pages)

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Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

KCI등재

저자 : Hosun Lim

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 30권 6호 발행 연도 : 2022 페이지 : pp. 919-932 (14 pages)

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This study analyzed the trends of applications for patents, utility models, and designs related to leggings in order to understand the trend of development of technologies for leggings products that are continuously growing in the fashion market. In this study, trends in patent, utility model, and design applications related to leggings products filed from 2001 to 2020 with the Korean Intellectual Property Office were analyzed. As a result, first, the trends of applications for patents, utility models, and designs by year showed that the applications began to rise from 2006 and increased sharply in the 2010s. Second, applications for patents and utility models were analyzed by subject and, according to the results, the applications for compression shaping functionality were the most frequent, followed by those for construction/sewing, those for accessories and others, those for system/device, and those for multi-functionality. Third, when applications for designs were classified by target for wearing and by type of leggings, applications for general leggings designs were the most frequently filed, followed by applications for: item attachment type leggings, shapewear leggings, leggings for men, leggings for pregnant women, leggings for children, and leggings for the disabled. Although this study is limited to domestic patents, utility models, and design applications, it collected useful information related to leggings products and presented directions for future development.

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