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Phytosphingosine and Its Derived Ceramides; Their Versatile Roles on ‘Bricks & Mortar’ Formation in Stratum Corneum
박장서
UCI I410-ECN-0102-2018-500-003828017
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SC has two compartments, corneocytes and lipids matrix surrounding corneocytes. Changes in these lipids affect the lamellar structur. Recent studies revealed that the chain length of N-acyl fatty acids of ceramide was essential for lipid lamellar structure. Many studies have shown beneficial effects of formulations using various ceramides on abnormal skins. However the only limited classes of ceramides of fixed chain length were used for moisturizers. In this study, phytoceramides containing fatty acids with different chain lengths was developed and tested for skin barrier functions. Results demonstrated new ceramides were significantly better than single C18-phytoceramide for improving barrier recovery and moisturization. Phytosphingosine(PHS) stimulates epidermal differentiation via PPAR activation. PHS enhanced filaggrin production and degradation by enhancing caspase 14 and bleomycin hydrolase leading to increase of NMF.

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