과학기술의 발전은 모발 염색에 있어서도 염색하기 쉽고, 색이 오래 지속되며 대량 생산이 가능한 많은 합성 염모제의 생산과 소비를 촉진시켰다. 그러나 염색 과정에서 야기되는 환경 오염 문제와 인체에 해가 되는 부작용의 문제가 대두 되었다. 많은 사람들이 건강상의 이유로 천연 염모제에 관심을 가지고 있으나 천연 염료에 의한 모발 염색은 아직 대중화 되지 못하고 있다. 본 연구는 색상이 자연스럽고 시간이 지나 퇴색이 되더라도 부드러우면서 깊이감 있는 분위기를 표현할 수 있으며, 인체에도 유익한 천연 염료 중 모발 염색에 적합한 것이 있는지 실험을 통해 알아보았다. 천연 염료 중에서 모발 염색으로 가능한 다양한 색상을 찾아 미용 분야에 있어서 천연염료 실용화 연구에 도움이 되고자 한다.
시료 모발의 염색 결과 울금(Turmeric)과 오배자(Gallnut)는 노란 색으로 염색되었는데 울금은 비비드한 컬러의 노란색, 오배자는 덜 톤의 노란색으로 염색되었다. 꼭두서니(Madder)와 아선약(catechu)은 주황색을 띤 붉은 색으로 염색되었다. 아선약보다는 꼭두서니가 명도, 채도가 높은 비비드 톤의 주황색으로 염색되었다. 락(Lac)과 코치닐(cochineal)은 명도와 채도가 낮은 붉은 색을 띤 짙은 브라운 색으로 염색되었다.
연구 결과 천연염료는 다양한 톤과 색상으로 모발을 염색할 수 있었다. 앞으로 천연 염모제의 실용화를 위한 제품 개발 및 연구가 더욱 필요할 것으로 사료된다.
As modern people become more interested in eco-friendly products, there has been a rising demand for hair coloring using natural dye for hair and scalp health. However, it’s been hard to find a study on natural dye-based hair coloring. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the effects of hair coloring using harmless natural dyes. The purpose of this study is to establish the ground for the studies on the practical use of natural dyes in hair coloring for hair and scalp health. In terms of research methods, literature review and experiment were performed. The sample hair was bleached in two types (N5, N7) under Munsell’s gray scale depending on hair brightness and colored using natural dyes. For color measurement, color reader (CR-10 KONICA MINOLTA) and Ci 62 portable spectrophotometer were used, and the values acquired from five consecutive measurements were averaged and analyzed. In terms of natural dyes, turmeric, gallnut, madder, catechu, lac and cochineal were used. The results found the followings: First, hair coloring using natural dyes revealed different color from synthetic dyes. Depending on dyes, very beautiful and deep soft color was created. Even though there were diverse differences in color and saturation depending on dyes, no big difference was found in brightness. Therefore, differences in tone occurred depending on saturation. Second, turmeric and gallnut were dyed in yellow. In N5, turmeric revealed deep yellow (1.9Y 6.0/10.3). In N7 as well, it showed deep yellow (0.2Y 5.4/9.1). In contract, gallnut was dyed in soft yellow in both N5 (0.3Y 5.8/5.2) and N7 (2.0Y 5.7/7.5). Third, madder and catechu were dyed in orange red. Madder was dyed in deep orange in both N5 (10YR 4.1/8.5) and N7 (10YR 4.1/8.5). Catechu was also dyed in deep orange in both N5 (1.3YR 3.9/7.0) and N7 (1.5YR 4.1/7.3). Madder was dyed in vivid orange which was slightly higher than catechu in terms of brightness and saturation. Fourth, lac and cochineal were dyed in reddish dark brown with low brightness and saturation. Lac was dyed in black stone in both N5 (8.2R 1.8/1.9) and N7 (9.1R 2.0/2.7). Natural dyes were able to color hair in diverse tones and colors. It appears that there should be further studies on product development for the commercialization of natural hair dyes.