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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture

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수록정보
수록범위 : 1권1호(1993)~25권3호(2017) |수록논문 수 : 1,624
복식문화연구
25권3호(2017년 06월) 수록논문
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KCI등재

1패션 소비자의 환경의식, 처분 추구가치, 지속가능한 패션소비태도와 패션처분행동에 관한 연구

저자 : 석효정 ( Hyojung Suk ) , 이은진 ( Eun-jin Lee )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 253-269 (17 pages)

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This study identified fashion consumers disposal behavior and analyzed the effects of consumers pursuing values in disposal, environmental awareness, and sustainable fashion consumption attitudes in regards to fashion disposal behavior. A survey questionnaire was developed and data were obtained from 460 consumers in their 20`s to 50`s in Korea who had experienced fashion disposal behaviors during last 12 months. As a result, there were four different fashion disposal behaviors such as economical, practical, and social disposal as well as hoarding behaviors. Consumers pursuing values in disposal affected fashion disposal behavior. Practical and economical values had positively impacted economical disposal and hoarding behaviors. While hedonic value had a negative impact on economical disposal behavior, it had a positive impact on social disposal behavior. Also, environmental-social values had positively impacted practical and social disposal behaviors. Fashion-related environmental knowledge had positively impacted economical and practical disposal behaviors and PCE affected social disposal behavior, while environmental concerns had a negative impact on economical disposal behavior. Consumers attitude toward usedfashion items, fashion recycling, and fashion innovativeness affected all of fashion disposal behaviors. Although hoarding behavior has been an under researched area, the finding implied that hoarding behavior was affected by consumer`s pursuing value in disposal and sustainable consumption attitude. Also, environmental-social values and attitudes toward used-fashion items would induce practical disposal behavior such as reuse by alteration or reform. Consumers economical and hedonic values can promote donations or exchange/resale of unwanted fashion items, which can lead to sustainable consumption.

KCI등재

23D 스캐닝, 3D 모델링, 3D 프린팅 기반의 3D 시스템에 의한 시니어 평발용 인솔 제작

저자 : 오설영 ( Seol Young Oh ) , 서동애 ( Dongae Suh )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 270-284 (15 pages)

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This study aimed to create 3D-printed insoles for flat-footed senior men using 3D systems. 3D systems are product-manufacturing systems that use 3-dimensional technologies like 3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing. This study used a 3D scanner (NexScan2), 3D CAD programs including Rapidform, AutoCAD, SolidWorks, Nauta+ compiling program, and a 3D printer. In order to create insoles for flat-footed senior men, we analyzed horizontal sections of 3D foot scans We selected 20 flatfooted and 20 normal-footed subjects. To make the 3D insole models, we sliced nine lines on the surface of the subjects` 3D foot scans, and plotted 144 points on the lines. We calculated the average of these 3D coordinates, then located this average within the 3D space of the AutoCAD program and created 3D sole models using the loft surface tools of the SolidWorks program. The sole models for flat feet differed from those of normal feet in the depth of the arch at the inner sideline and the big toe line. We placed the normal-footed sole model on a flat-footed sole model, and the combination of the two models resulted in the 3D insole for flat feet. We printed the 3D modeled insole using a 3D printer. The 3D printing material was an acrylic resin similar to rubber. This made the insole model flexible and wearable. This study utilized 3D systems to create 3D insoles for flat-footed seniors and this process can be applied to manufacture other items in the fashion industry as well.

KCI등재

3중년 여성을 타겟으로 하는 여성복 광고에 나타난 모델 이미지

저자 : 권상희 ( Sang-hee Kwon )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 285-300 (16 pages)

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This study analyzes the images of models in womenswear advertisements targeting women in their fifties. The goals of this study are: 1) to investigate beauty ideals for middle-aged women by analyzing models` look age, chronological age, wrinkles, gray hair, hair length, body type, and race; and 2) to explore how ageing is dealt with in advertisements by analyzing the range of bodies shown in advertisements, the color mode of photographs, and the clarity of models` figures in relation to models` look ages. A total of 155 printed advertisements from January 2012 to January 2017 from the brands Daks Ladies, Lebeige, Luciano Choi, PAT, and Zishen were selected for analysis. Womenswear brands targeting middle-aged women reinforce cultural ideals of female beauty that emphasize youth and slenderness. They do this by using thin and slender models, who most often appear to be in their twenties and thirties, and have hair longer than their shoulders. Brands with higher price ranges show a preference for Caucasian models, which reveals that a Caucasian identity is associated with sophistication. In addition, the bodies of models who appear to be in their forties and fifties were concealed by framing photographs mostly above the knees. Older models` features were also obscured via the use of black and white photography, strong lighting and contrast, and digital editing that blurred the boundaries between figures and their backgrounds. These decisions for how to represent models could result in negative self-esteem and a denial of the symptoms of ageing among middle-aged women.

KCI등재

4클래식 오페라 무대의상의 동작기능성 개선방안 연구 - 19세기 여성 재킷을 중심으로 -

저자 : 권경현 ( Kyounghyun Kwon ) , 천종숙 ( Jongsuk Chun )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 301-314 (14 pages)

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This study focused on the movement adaptability of 19th century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic 19th century women`s jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic 19th century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments` silhouettes and the 19th century women`s jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the 19th century western women`s jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

KCI등재

5페이퍼크라프트(Papercraft) 패션의 디자인 방법과 표현 특성

저자 : 후명철 ( Ming Zhe Hou ) , 유영선 ( Youngsun Yoo )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 315-326 (12 pages)

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The purpose of this study is to investigate the design methods and characteristics of papercraft fashion from 2001 to 2015. The study has been conducted through theoretical research and case study. Overall, types of papercraft expressions are classified into the following four categories: narrative papercraft fashion, organic papercraft fashion, variable papercraft fashion, and recycling papercraft fashion. The characteristics and aspects of each type of papercraft is described below. First, narrative papercraft fashion expresses as factual description of the natural environment. These works convey fantastic image by showing fairy tale animals or plants using paper folding or cutting. Second, organic papercraft fashion creates a futuristic shape by expressing organic parts in nature. Also, it often depicts future-oriented images by repeatedly representing organic shapes using uniform patterns in nature. Third, variable papercraft fashion expresses a variety of changing shapes through a flexible design based on the style of wearing. This variation may be accomplished through changeable dress connected to human gestures. Variable papercraft represents playfulness, which conveys enjoyment to the wearer and the audience. Fourth, recycling papercraft fashion uses paper materials of the past, and recreates them into artworks through handicraft techniques. Recycling papercraft conveys high value added fashion by dissolving the material into pulp.

KCI등재

6A hierarchical model of self-determined motivation for thrift shopping behavior

저자 : ( Keunyoung Oh ) , ( Yun-jung Choi )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 327-339 (13 pages)

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A consumer is an individual entity with various motivations. This study is intended to incorporate a hierarchical structure of motivation to understand self-determined motivation for purchasing secondhand merchandise at thrift stores. A conceptual model adopted from Cadwallader et al. (2010)`s comprehensive model of motivation used in a marketing context was developed to investigate motivational process in secondhand merchandise shopping. The conceptual model includes the three levels of motivational structure-the global, contextual (environmental concern and frugality), and situational motivation. A series of the causal relationships among the three levels of self-determined motivations and buying intention to shop at thrift stores were hypothesized. A total of 219 respondents from two different northeastern state universities in the U.S. completed a self-administered survey. The results indicated that secondhand merchandise shopping is well explained in the hierarchical structure of self-determined motivation where the global motivation had a positive impact on the contextual motivations regarding environmental concern and frugality. Of the two contextual motivations, only environmental concern had a positive impact on situational motivation for shopping at thrift stores. Finally, the situational motivation positively influenced the intention to shop at thrift stores. The results of this model suggest that the hierarchical structure of self-determined motivation would be a very useful framework to understand consumer behavior for apparel shopping. Also, further research can be done to identify other contextual motivational factors to understand consumer motivation for shopping at thrift stores.

KCI등재

7대한제국기 남자 조끼 형태 및 제작법에 관한 연구

저자 : 최은주 ( Eunjoo Choi )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 340-358 (19 pages)

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The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes “Daeraebok” and “Soraebok” of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and doublebreasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

KCI등재

8섬유패션업체들의 경영 특성 비교 - 손익계산서의 수익, 이익, 비용항목을 중심으로 -

저자 : 지혜경 ( Hye Kyung Ji )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 359-374 (16 pages)

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The objective of this study was to compare business management indicators among tex-tiles and fashion companies. Business management indicators of 356 textiles and fashion companies for the year 2015 were analyzed, using income statements showing their management results. The results were as follows. First, there were statistically significant differences between the operating income ratios of textiles and fashion companies for the term, but there were none when it came to net income ratio. Second, the differences between cost of goods sold, cost of finished goods sold, and cost of merchandise sold to sales ratios among textiles and fashion companies were all statistically significant. The cost of goods sold, cost of fini-shed goods sold, and cost of merchandise sold to sales ratios were higher for fiber and thread companies, fabric companies, and dyeing and finishing companies than for clothing and fashion accessories companies. Third, there were statistically significant differences between the ratio of salaries and the ratio of advertising expenses among textiles and fashion companies. The salaries ratios and advertising expenses ratios for clothing companies were higher than those of fiber and yarn companies, fabric companies, and dyeing and finishing companies. This study is meaningful as it has identified the business characteristics of textiles and fashion companies using the management indicators of those companies, which have not been sufficiently explored by previous studies. It has also helped to improve understanding of the industrial struc-ture of the upstream and midstream sectors of the textiles and fashion industries.

KCI등재

9타셈 싱(Tarsem Singh) 영화 `백설공주` 의상에 표현된 매직리얼리즘 특성

저자 : 양수현 ( Soo Hyun Yang ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 375-390 (16 pages)

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The aims of this research were to characterize magic realism by analyzing existing magical reality literature reviews and research and to identify material that may inspire ideas for stage and film costume design by analyzing and drawing design characteristics and magic realism of costumes from Director Tarsem Singh`s movie, `Mirror, Mirror`. For the methodology, characteristics of magic realism in literature and, movies were analyzed, with a theoretical consideration of these materials on magical realism. Data on costume design and magical realism characteristics for use in the analysis were collected from the main characters of `Mirror, Mirror` as well as from other characters. The result of this analysis was the emergence of five common characteristics of the magic realism Historicity, the most remarkable characteristic seen in Tarsem Singh films, was expressed through the symbolic meaning and decorative patterns shown by the traditional-style costumes, colors. Symbolization was expressed through the symbolic meaning, decorative elements, and traditional clothes, as shown by the colors and forms of the costumes. Fantasy was expressed through the colors, decorative elements, forms of traditional clothing, and forms with symbolic meaning. Reproducibility was expressed through the method of decorative element, symbolic meaning, traditional forms and de-structural clothes. Ambiguity, which can be associated with the combined characteristics of historicity and fantasy, was expressed in the clothes worn in the scenes that confounded time and space within the film.

KCI등재

10스포츠 클라이밍 팬츠의 기능적 디자인에 대한 소비자 수요 특성과 상품 개발

저자 : 박지혜 ( Jeehye Park ) , 천종숙 ( Jongsuk Chun )

발행기관 : 복식문화학회 간행물 : 복식문화연구 25권 3호 발행 연도 : 2017 페이지 : pp. 391-404 (14 pages)

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The purpose of this study was to identify the consumers` demands on functional design of sports climbing pants. Data were collected through a field survey. 82 male and 70 female amateur sports climbers in Seoul participated. The questionnaires measured aspects of functional design in sports climbing pants, specifically motion adaptability, comfort and aesthetic value of the climbing pants. The results of this study show that comfort during climbing postures was the most important value of the climbing pants. The subjects sought motion adaptability at the hip, crotch, thigh and knee. The preferred style and degree of fit of climbing pants were differed according to gender. Men preferred loose or semi tight fit style climbing pants but women preferred the leggings style of the sport pants. The soft touch seam line and body shaping function were also important for women. The type of pants preferred for sports climbing also differed by the climbing experience period. Men began to wear the outdoor mountaineering style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for 6 months and to wear the climbing expert style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for a year. Most women wore leggings style sports pants from the beginner stage. This study also analyzed Korean market trend in 2016~2017 F/W for sports climbing pants design. The men`s pants were more likely to be designed to improve mobility compared to the women`s pants, even though the aesthetic value of the sports climbing pants was important for women.

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1연안해역에서 석유오염물질의 세균학적 분해에 관한 연구

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(2006)홍길동41회 피인용

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